As important as it is to pick the right sticks, when it comes to drum pedals we have to be even more careful in choosing the devices we are going to utilize.
Inadequate and badly adjusted pedals are inevitably going to undermine all our efforts to get better and will become an insurmountable obstacle to the advancement of our skills with the feet.
So in this article we are going to learn how to choose and adjust our Bass Drum and Hi-Hat pedals.
First of all as we know the default drum pedal size is standard. It’s likely that in the future we are going to have the possibility to choose even the length and width of the footboard, based on how big our feet are.
Actually the fact that we only have a one size fits all option is quite convenient, since it eliminates one of the variables that could complicate the fine tuning of the pedal.
Also, since modern drumming technique is based almost exclusively on the heel up approach, the size of the footboard becomes pretty irrelevant.
Talking about build quality, today the standard is pretty high, for both Bass Drum pedals and Hi-Hat stands.
Even entry-level gear is pretty good nowadays. However, given the level of stress we put these tools under, the cheapest ones are going to last a lot less and maintain the settings we like with less precision.
At the extreme opposite we have mind blowing pedals with incredibly high-tech parts and a ton of adjustable components.
In my opinion this situation can also be tricky, because it ends up making things a lot more complicated and it can become difficult to figure out whether or not the adjustments we try are beneficial.
Simplicity works: in most cases a good mid-range pedal will be as solid as necessary and will be suitable even for the consummate pro, with more than enough options to tweak it to perfection.
The double bass Tama Iron Cobra pedal I used to shoot some videos (like this one), has recently turned 20 and still works beautifully.
As far as the Bass Drum pedal goes, it’s important that it features a thick and sturdy metal plate, so that it is stable enough to grant us a firm and solid feel beneath the foot.
Let’s now go through a few adjustments.
First of all, we should try to obtain a response as close as possible between the two pedals, and also a very similar spring tension.
This is not that easy to accomplish, due to the fact that the Bass Drum pedal and the Hi-Hat stand and pedal are two quite different pieces of equipment, and on top of this the way drumheads and cymbals respond is rather dissimilar.
Nonetheless we can try to get close enough to have a nice balance.
Let’s adjust the Hi-Hat footplate so that it sinks about one inch between the open and close position.
We can achieve this by pressing the pedal and then tightening the clutch, or alternatively by raising and then clamping the top cymbal.
This will allow us to get a reaction very similar to that of the Bass Drum, and will also facilitate the possibility to produce all the sounds we want.
The same goes for the spring: Hi-Hat stands have a knob that allows us to adjust its tension. We can tweak it until we reach a response as similar as possible to that of the Bass Drum pedal.
Talking of which, a good starting point to set it up is as follows:
- Beater at about a 45 degree angle in rest position. This allows for all the space and action we need to use the pedal at all dynamic levels and speeds (about one inch, as said above).
- Beater fastened at about 6 to 8 inches from the pedal axis, so that when we press it, it goes right in the center of the head (in case of a standard 22 inches Bass Drum).
This is how to achieve the best possible sound, and also a very well balanced lever.
For smaller or bigger drums it’s acceptable to hit the head a bit off center, since the priority is to keep the shaft length consistent. - As little spring tension as possible, yet enough tension that we still get a good response to easily play fast successions of notes.
Even though a very tight spring makes it easier to play at the most extreme tempos, in all other situations it will cause unnecessary muscle strain and will likely make our technique stiff and unnatural.
Since a pedal is a system of leverages, in high-end gear we can usually find counterweights, a wide choice of differently shaped cams, and screws to angle the beater as we prefer.
As said above, too many settings can be a problem. They can be useful if we are able to find the perfect combination for us, and that is certainly possible.
Nevertheless, if we take into account how much time we need to invest to get an accurate feedback of exactly what happens when we modify a certain variable, we realize that it’s a lot easier to get lost.
This is just my experience and point of view.
Pedals may feature chain or belt drive (and also direct drive although it’s pretty rare).
Chain drive is most drummer’s first choice, thanks to its reliability and the smooth action it provides. Some prefer the softer and a bit faster response that characterizes the belt drive.
Also, it’s important to keep the footboards in such a position that both feet lay naturally on them, covering the entire surface, especially if we use heel down technique.
This means that when setting up our pedals we have to make sure they are angled in the same way, converging (instead of parallel) like the axes created between our feet when we sit to play.
Related resources:
‘Bass Drum & Feet’ – Altitude Drumming – Volume 3
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